Category Archives: The Nation Has An Appetite

Mac Daddy: Vegan “mac and cheese”

Ok, so you're thinking, "Vegan Mac and Cheese? WTF? Why would I do that to myself?"

Yea, you got a point. Because ooey-gooey, rich and creamy mac an cheese is a delight. Add some lobster and you are in gourmet territory.

But I'm here to tell you that this dish is The Bomb. You may know that there's no dairy in it, but you won't really care. Because delicious. And what could be more 'murican on Preznit Day than vegan mac-n-cheese, amiright?

The base for this is a gravy made with toasted cashews. The gravy is delicious in its own right. I made a similar one for Thanksgiving, and it was a big hit with everyone, vegan and animal murderers alike.

Preheat oven to ~300 deg and pop a cookie sheet in the oven with about 3/4 cup of roasted cashews (you can also use raw cashews if you want, but might want to toast them longer). Toast about 10 minutes until fragrant and just starting to brown. Set the nuts aside in a bowl. Raise the oven to 350 deg. Coarsely grind about 2 slices of good whole-grain bread and dump the crumbs onto the cookie sheet. Toast these about 5-10 minutes until crunchy and lightly toasted. Set aside to use as topping.

Meanwhile, finely chop one large onion and saute in olive oil with a pinch of kosher salt and a few grinds of pepper. After about ten minutes, add about 2-3 cups of coarsely chopped mushrooms (I used about 10 large mushrooms; I separated the stems from the caps, but that's not an absolute necessity). Saute for a couple of minutes until the mushrooms are cooked down, then add 1-2 cloves of garlic, crushed or chopped. Saute a couple more minutes so the garlic is no longer raw, then set aside.

Meanwhile meanwhile, bring a pot of water to boil with some salt. Cook elbow macaroni (or other shape, if you prefer) to just done. Reserve a cup of pasta water for thinning the sauce if needed (I needed!). Dump the pasta into an oiled casserole dish and combine with the mushrooms and onions.

and meanwhile (again), chop another clove or two of garlic and about an inch of ginger. Sweat in a smallish sauce pan with about 2 tbsp olive oil, then add about a half teaspoon of sweet paprika (or hot paprika or other chile if you prefer it spicier), a big pinch of kosher salt, and stir for a minute or so, until the chile is fragrant. Add about a tbsp of flour to make a light roux. Add a tablespoon of white/yellow miso paste and stir to incorporate. (If you don't have miso paste, you can use tamari or good soy sauce at the next stage; but miso is the way to go here)

Slowly! add about 2 cups of vegetable stock, whisking to avoid making dumplings. Add the toasted cashews and bring to a boil for a couple of minutes, stirring frequently. If using the tamari/soy instead of miso, add it now. Dump the cashew stock into a blender (Vitamix, baby!) and process until very smooth, adding the reserved pasta water and more veggie stock as needed to get a pourable, cream soup consistency. Check for seasoning. You shouldn't need any additional salt at this point (unless you used unsalted cashews, in which case, maybe). If the tan color doesn't float your boat, you could, I suppose, blend in a half tsp or so of turmeric to brighten things up. But brown tones don't bother me, and you're gonna want to serve this with a green veggie anyway.

Combine the sauce with the pasta and onion/mushroom mix, then sprinkle the breadcrumbs over the top. All of the breadcrumbs, in a relatively even layer. Dot with vegan margarine (the Girl prefers Earth Balance, and, truth be told, it tastes pretty good). Bake, covered, for about 10 minutes, then uncovered for another 10 or so. It should be piping hot by now. Serve with a green vegetable on the side.

You just may find this addicting.

Cornbread Mmmmmmuffins

I’ve tried a number of cornbread recipes over the years, and this is the closest I’ve found to perfection. My complaints about others are numerous: too sweet, too dense, too dry, too labor intensive. These muffins have none of those faults, and they have a wonderful texture to boot. In addition, I’ve found six muffins to be just the right amount—because there is nothing sadder than that last hunk of cornbread slowly molding on the kitchen counter. (Not that I’m suggesting such a thing ever happens in your house, of course.) Continue reading Cornbread Mmmmmmuffins

Big Night

As anticipated events go, they don't come much bigger. I'd been building up to this dinner for three years, reminding my wife over and over (and over) again that all I wanted for my 50th birthday was dinner at Thomas Keller's renowned French Laundry in Yountville. There were some stumbles getting the reservation, but we finally got our Golden Tickets.
Continue reading Big Night

Bành mí từ Wisconsin

Last Friday I went up to Minneapolis to meet with my friend K, who was treating my brothers and me to a Twins game. We stayed for all thirteen innings, easily the longest game I've attended in some years. It was really nice talking with K, who grew up with Pops Hayes and remained good friends right up until Pops' passing.

As great as it was to see the Twins beat the Astros in a slap fight, the food I ate on Friday and Saturday was far better. Friday lunch was a Jucy Lucy and Grain Belt at Matt's. Friday supper was pot roast and a fantastic Arnold Palmer at Modern Cafe. Saturday breakfast with my Uncle Sam was the Hippie Pancakes, hashbrowns, and coffee at Hazel's Northeast. And Saturday lunch was bành mí and iced coffee at Pho Tau Bay on Eat Street with a cousin.

So, when Mrs. Hayes mentioned wanting sandwiches on crusty bread for supper last night, you can see where my thinking was headed - bành mí từ Wisconsin (Wisconsin bành mí). Or, at least what I figure might be a reasonable attempt at such a dish.

Bành mí từ Wisconsin

Continue reading Bành mí từ Wisconsin

I’m in a pickle

The Great Pickle Experiment has reached an important milestone, as I've transferred both jars now to the fridge. Success! These pickles are delicious, and stupid easy to make.

The recipe is due to Cathy Barrow at the New York Times and is simplicity itself. In its essence: soak cukes in cold water for half an hour. Stuff them into clean quart jars. Add some spices. Cover with cooled brine and let sit for at least three days at room temperature. Enjoy!
Continue reading I’m in a pickle

Shrimp Lettuce Cups

Given some of the culinary smart-people we have running around this site, I hardly feel qualified to put up a recipe.  But I'm just so darn happy with how dinner tonight turned out (no recipe, this just made sense to me! I'm sure I've had something like it somewhere else before, of course. Still...), that I figured I'd put something together.  Also, many of these ingredients came from our CSA this week. Also, I want other people to put up recipes more often, in dedicated Nation Has An Appetite form, so they're easier for me to find when I want them.  So I'll lead the way. Continue reading Shrimp Lettuce Cups

Opening Day Soup

Opening Day Soup

It's been a rough winter here at Chez Hayes. Mrs. Hayes had another stay in the hospital last week, and another surgery. She's home now, recovering, and hopefully won't have any more follow-up procedures related to this last episode. I love winter (it's my favorite season), but yesterday evening, as I wandered through the grocery store, I knew it was time to move on. It was time for spring flavors, to slowly introduce them to a palate grown fuzzy over the grey months. I instantly thought of leeks, and a light, creamy soup. Here's what you'll need:

6 leeks, halved, thinly chopped, & washed 2 carrots, rondelle'd (cut into 1/4 coins) 6--7 medium, thin-skinned potatoes
1/3 cup white wine 4 cups chicken stock 1 cup water
2 egg yolks 2 cups heavy cream butter, olive oil
bay leaf parsley kosher S&P

Cut your carrots first, setting them aside in a prep bowl. Taking a leek, peel the outside layer from the root, then rinse any sand from the first layer beneath. Lop off the dark green top. Repeat with the remaining leeks. Taking a leek, slice off the bottom, then half the root lengthwise. Chop it thinly, in 1/8" strips, including just the beginning of the light green portion of the root. Collect the strips in a colander. After you've processed the remaining leeks in the same manner, place the colander inside a larger bowl, and fill it with water. Agitate the leek strips in the water, then pull the colander from the water. Dump out the water and repeat, shake the excess water from the leeks in the colander, and you've got clean leeks. Now cut your potatoes with a clean knife on a clean board. No need to peel them - they'll cook up quite nicely. Prep's done!

ODSoup02SBG

In a heavy pot, melt some butter and drizzle in some olive oil. Once it's hot, toss the carrots in. Sprinkle with kosher salt and grind some pepper over them. I like to build my seasoning as I cook, avoiding huge seasoning adjustments at the end. Cook them until they begin to soften, but be careful to not let them caramelize. We're trying to release flavors without making things too heavy on the back end. Now, before you toss in the leeks, add a little more butter and a little more olive oil. I probably used 4 Tbsp of butter, total, but I wasn't really counting. You'll definitely need to add some, though, because you'll want to get a good coating on the leeks. Add the leeks, a good sprinkle of salt, and a few more grinds of pepper. Watch your temperature, though - you want the leeks to turn translucent, but not golden. Done? Deglaze the pan with that white wine, letting it cook off just a bit. Now add the chicken stock, water, bay leaf, and potatoes. A couple more sprinkles of salt and a several healthy grinds of pepper. Cover, and let it cook until the potatoes are soft enough to break against the pot with a wooden spoon. How long? About as long as it takes to drink a leisurely glass of beer. You are drinking a beer, right? Good.

Patience.

Now we're hitting the home stretch. Once the potatoes are soft enough, drop your heat down from a boil, pulling the pot off the burner if it holds heat well. Pull out a few ladlefuls of soup, including a fair amount of potatoes, carrots, and leeks, about a bowl's worth in all. You'll need some broth, too, but make sure you don't get the bay leaf in there. Using an immersion blender (or a bar blender - be careful not to blow the top, scalding yourself and making a mess), thoroughly blend the bowl of soup until it's smooth, then add it back to the pot of soup and stir it in. Separate out your egg yolks and put them in the bowl you used to blend the soup. Whisk the eggs together, then add the heavy cream slowly until thoroughly combined. Season with a few sprinkles of salt and a few grinds of pepper, then add the mixture to the soup, stirring, and let it cook for a few minutes. Grab a tasting spoon, check your seasoning, and admire the nap of the soup on the spoon. If you're satisfied with the seasoning, finely chop a little parsley. Ladle the soup into bowls, sprinkle some parsley on top, and you're set. Open another beer, it's time to eat.

Time to eat.
Time to eat.

You could add some croutons if you like, or some crostini. I just wanted straight spring flavor, so I didn't mess around with those, but maybe I could have used a little crusty bread to clean that bowl when I was done. Your call.

That Ol’ Black Magic

As the Nation knows (since I've repeatedly mentioned, so as to draw more sympathy -- thanks so very much you unsympathetic cads!), I am on the road to recovery after shoulder surgery. One consequence: I've been trapped at home, unable to drive, limited in terms of activities. mrsS thinks I should spend all day doing financial aid forms. I think differently.

yesterday was the Girl's Sweet Sixteenth birthday. We are celebrating this weekend, but I thought I would try to make one of her favorites for dinner. Those of you with teenage daughters can predict what happened next -- she wanted nothing to do with what I made, and retreated to her room, "not feeling well." Alas. At least her brother, The Boy, called her last night from the Alma Mater to wish her HBD. Good boy. That apparently cheered her right up -- wonders will never cease.

Aaaanyway, I made black beans last night, for black bean tacos. I ate them, and they were delicious. And, truth be told, I made them as much for me as for her. Yea, I'm that kind of dad.
Continue reading That Ol’ Black Magic